Illustrated London News. [Click on image to enlarge it.]. Source:
Commentary from the Illustrated London News
Parisian belles were in expectation of dancing this season in presence of the President of the Republic at the Palace of the Eiysée; but in this they have been disappointed, and, for want of an example being given in oﬁicial regions, balls have been the reverse of numerous, the salons of the Faubourgs St. Germain and St. Honoré having been thrown open simply for afternoon and evening receptions, from which dancing has been rigorously excluded. The favourite toilette at these reunions is the robe princesse, made of velvet, edged with Chantilly lace and open in front en tablier, so as to display a skirt of satin or faille. The robe, Which is tightened at the waist, falls behind in a long square-cut train. Robes of black velvet over jupes of white faille and tunics of Chantilly lace over skirts of faille and satin made in the above-mentioned style are no less elegant than they are becoming.
Toilettes de promenade just touch the ground, and at times are even worn with a demie-traine. A costume in black faille and heartsease-coloured velvet has an under jupe of the ﬁrst-named material, trimmed with three vnndyked black satin ﬂounces, headed with satin rouleaux. The velvet upper skirt is bordered with a ruche and deep silk fringe, the Spanish basquine, in violet velvet, with little basques all round the waist, being trimmed to correspond. The costume Marie Stuart, which is of myrtle green velvet, has the under jupe trimmed with biais of green satin and fringe with tasscls. The upper skirt. similarly trimmed, is caught up at the sides with silk cord, and falls very low behind; while the velvet corsage is striped horizontally with satin rouleaux, having buttons ﬁxed at each end, the tight sleeves, lined with white satin, being similarly ornamented. A lace ruche round the neck completes the toilette, with which is worn a toque, Henri III. or Charles IX., which resemble each other somewhat in shape, and both of which are trimmed with bows and feathers.
Among other chapeaux one of the most characteristic is the chapeau Alsacien, with its little, round-shaped crown of black velvet and lace scarf, forming a havolet and strings. A band of Chantilly lace is turned over the front, while at the top is a large Alsatian bow of faille ribbon, with its four fringed ends falling down to the waist. Another novelty is the chapeau jockey, which is of black lace with a puffed tulle and faille crown. A wreath of tinted ivy posed on the front forms a tuft of foliage on one side, from one of which springs a black aigrette. A lace scarf veil and faille ribbons fall behind. Another new chapeau is the Marie Antoinette, of black velvet, with small round crown, around which is twisted a band of black faille. At one side is a tuft of rosebuds and a tiny plume of blue and black feathers, secured by a turquoise-blue bow, the ends of which, after being twisted over the torsade, fall behind with it, while another bow forms a kind of bavolet.
Fig. 1. Toilette de promenade of pearl grey poult de soie, the upper skirt of which forms a tablier, edged with a little flounce in front, and a very full puff behind. The under jupe is trimmed with two flounces, the lower one of which is very deep and almost reaches the bottom of the skirt. The little paletot of maroon-coloured velvet is edged with ermine and braided with velvet wheat-ears and ﬁeld ﬂowers. The toque Charles IX. is of black velvet, and has a large ostrich-feather falling behind, and a velvet aigrette at the left side.
Fig. 2. Toilette de visite of garnet-coloured faille, the skirt of which is trimmed at the bottom with a deep plaited ﬂounce. The velvet pardessus, of the same colour as the dress and cut to the shape, is edged with deep black lace, and secured down the front with ornaments of passementerie and guipure. It is caught up on each side with bands of lace descending from the shoulders, and forming a small puff behind. The large sleeves are trimmed with lace. The chapeau, of black faille, is bordered with narrow guipure, and has a large bow at the left side, the ends of which trail behind under a long black ostrich feather.
Fig. 3. Ball-dress composed of embroidered silk tulle and white taffeta. The upper skirt, which is of the ﬁrst-named material, is spotted with diminutive heartsease and lilies of the valley; while a trail of roses descending from the waist catches it up at the side in the most graceful manner. The corsage is edged with little bouillonnées, which also form the shoulder-straps. The white taffeta undershirt is trimmed at the bottom with two small lounces. A tuft of ﬂowers in the hair completes the toilet.
Fig. 4. Toilette de réception of green silk rep, the underskirt of which is trimmed at the bottom with a ﬂounce, headed with a biais of white satin bordered with fringe, the head of which is concealed by rouleaux of green satin. The upper skirt, which is bordered with a similar biais and fringe, is caught up at each side so as to form a puﬁ behind. The corsage is trimmed in front with crossbars of green satin biais, and has a berthe formed with biais and fringe corresponding to the trimming of the skirts. The sleeves and basques of the corsage are trimmed in the same style.
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“Paris Fashions for the New Year.” Illustrated London News 60 (3 February 1872): 115-16. . Hathi Trust Digital Library version of a copy in the University of Michigan Library. Web. 20 January 2016.]
Last modified 20 January 2016